After 17 years, we returned to Sardinia for a sailing holiday. This time exploring some new areas in the northern part of the Island. 2022 brought some interesting wind medleys with mistral winds blowing in all directions making things very tricky for sailors in the Mediterranean. So Chet, our skipper selected a relatively protected series of anchorages, which were regarded as beautiful and potentially sheltering us from any mistral winds that may sweep past.

Read on, as these places were even better than sailing the famous Maddalena Islands….

Golfo Aranci

Our first three days were spent in Golfo Aranci, a small picturesque bay where Chet and my sis in law, Jessy were anchored in their 46ft Nautitech Catamaran, Navasana. We spent these days enjoying the blue turquoise waters that the bay had to offer – it was like having a crystal-clear swimming pool with a white sandy beach and boat anchorage attached to it. The water was the perfect temperature – cool and refreshing, even in the 35C heat. We visited the beach with our SUPs (no dinghies allowed) paddling past some beautiful anchored boats. The water here was relatively shallow and a significant walk outward from the beach before it reached our waists – so it was perfect for our Dad who was gaining his swimming confidence back!

The town itself is quaint and laid-back and has a great gelateria, Paradice Cream, that we would frequent. Try their pistachio gelato with roasted nuts – delicious! It has a few well-stocked shops if you need to provision for your boat and a decent chandlery too. The Marina is very picturesque – a definite place to visit!

Tavolara

A short, 1-hour sail from Aranci is the small island of Tavolara – regarded as one of the beauty spots of this region, and used to be its own kingdom. The anchorage we chose, Spiaggia Spalmatore di terra had already built up a number of visitors. The seabed was excellent for anchorage, and we found a spot close enough to swim to the beach. Before long we were surrounded by an influx of charter day boats, dinghies, cats, and motorboats. I pulled out the binoculars to “creep” two superyachts that were anchored in the distance – hoping to spot someone famous.

We enjoyed some lunch on board, swam in the turquoise waters. Jessy managed a walk on the beach. The island is supposed to have some nice hiking trails – but in the 35C + heat this was not an option! After lunch, we settled on the trampolines enjoying the view of Tavolara’s highest point, Monte Cannone, as Jessy opened a bottle of Funtanaliras Oro Vermentino di Gallura 2021. La Dolce Vita!

Nodu Pianu

Next day was a short sail across to Nodu Pianu, a nice and quiet anchorage with a pebbly beach, popular with the locals. We got the dinghy into the water, rafted two SUPS on either side and headed toward the beach, dropping anchor outside the swim zone to then SUP to the beach for a G&T break. The locals had gathered in their groups on the beach, young kids played with large rocks, piling them up on small body boards and tipping them over. A group of elderly Italian women had set up a group of parasols and brought food and wine to settle in for a day at the beach. Two old men stood near us deep in conversation. Everyone looked super fit and tanned, just like you would imagine fit and tanned Italians on holiday to look like! I spent time with Dad getting him to swim further and further away from the beach. He slowly built-up confidence with his technique.

Capo Coda Cavallo

The following morning, we lifted anchor and set sail for Capo Coda Cavallo about 45 minutes from Tavolara. Surrounded by deeper turquoise waters and a short SUP ride to a nearby sandy beach, this was a calm anchorage, however got increasingly busy over the course of the morning. It was sizzling hot at 35C and we took several dips in the water to cool off.

As evening approached and the temperatures were a little more forgiving, a flurry of activity began, electric foil boards and SUPs zipped around the bay, some with cute pets onboard. On one boat in the distance, a group were practicing their evening gym drills. On another, a lady went solo with her evening yoga sequence.

One of many beautiful sunsets was experienced here. Sunsets were often the only time it was quiet on Navasana as we all paused to reflect on the breathtaking beauty that surrounded us, and appreciate the wonders that nature continues to give.

Pools of Molara

“Get ready for highlight of the region!” said our skipper, as we lifted anchor and started the short sail toward the Pools of Molara or “swimming pool of Tavolara“. The water was incredible. Some stunning boats had also anchored up near us like the custom-built Italian “Nove” and the 80ft “Berenice”. As late afternoon approached and temperatures started to cool, we set off for the beach, taking the dinghy and rafting two SUPs on either side planing along the turquoise magic waters to the beach. It was a small sandy/pebbly beach with a beautiful rock façade to the sides and a tall rocky cliff where young Italian boys bravely practiced their dives. Out came the G&Ts as we set back and enjoyed the views. I remember sitting and thinking how amazingly grateful I was to have the opportunity to be here with our family enjoying this incredible experience!

Cala Girgol

After enjoying the turquoise waters of Tavolara during the day, we set sail for Cala Girgol a protected night anchorage. A beautiful journey with the scenic Tavolara mountain behind us. This green and lush bay reminded me of the coast along St. Vincent in the Caribbean, on a smaller scale. We decided to stay in and Dad cooked us a delicious evening meal. The following morning, after a quick drop by to Golfo Aranci to fill up fuel we headed over to our last anchorage spot.

Spiaggetta di Figarolo

Nestled amongst a fishing farm and a mountain, came this last anchorage. A gem of a place. We arrived early in the day just as a Dutch boat was leaving, to anchor in front of this beautiful lush green mountain. The water was turquoise and we were a short swim to the beach. With the anchor down in the sandy bottom, we went about our usual routine. This bay is a well-known dolphin-spotting area as they are attracted by the nearby fish farm.

At night, as the anchorage was relatively calm, we decided to get our projector out to watch the movie “House of Gucci”. We rolled down one of the sunshades in the cockpit area to project the screen and settled back in our little makeshift cinema. Jessy and I were still alert hoping we would get some dolphin visitors at some stage. It wasn’t before long that we started to hear squeaky sounds. Yes! Our friendly visitors had arrived in the bay. The cinema curtains came down as we quickly reached for the stern stairs to spot them. After some careful searching in the dark for several minutes we traced the squeaking sounds to the dinghy rubbing against the steel holdings of the boat. Sadly, no dolphins!

Cannigione

Early morning we lifted anchor and headed for Baja Sardinia as our Dad was flying back to the UK from Olbia. We sailed along the coast toward the north of the island, passing Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo, the original playground of billionaires and superyachts.

Chet had reserved a mooring buoy in Cannigione, and as we arrived and settled in the marina, the temperature was hitting 37 degrees, and with no wind, it felt like a furnace. Chet and Jessy prepared to take Dad to his taxi for Olbia airport and shop for provisions along the way.

In the evening we visited the marina and enjoyed a wonderful Italian dinner at the restaurant Lu Cannisgioni.

Phi Beach – Baja Sardinia

Nestled along an emerald green bay in the Baja Sardinia is the super-chic Phi Beach Club. “Wow!” I gasped as we stepped out of our taxi admiring the immaculately groomed surroundings: lush lawns and shrubs, flowers and cacti meticulously organised in plant beds everywhere. The actual beach club building stood to the right built into a giant Flintstone-like rock façade. A short walk led us to the view overlooking the outdoor beach club – which had its own private beach, anchorage and helipad. Ahead of that was a giant expanse of emerald green water, and the distance: a view over the famous Maddalena Islands.

After an amazing afternoon enjoying these surroundings and celebrating Jessy’s birthday, preparations for the evening beach experience were underway. We enjoyed dinner and then took to the dance floor for a spectacular evening of fun with a magical sunset in the background. Would highly recommend a visit!